A Month of Dressmaking: Some Japanese patterns I have made

Hi Guys,
I'm back with a clean studio. I got older while I was gone, but I'm feeling some wisdom too, so it's not all bad. Now, to finally get on with a Month of Dressmaking!

My second post on this subject shows me wearing some of the designs I have already made from Japanese dressmaking books. These are all incredibly simple patterns to make. The shapes are easy to cut, fit and sew and the instructions are straight forward.

If you're in your twenties (or younger) and very thin, you can assume the clothes will look similar to the pictures in the books. If you're older, live in a different climate, taller or wider you will need to use your imagination a little.

I am a UK size 12-14, which is about a European 40, US 10-12, or size medium. I wear an F cup bra which is my biggest fitting problem and I'm 5'5 or 1.65m tall. I'm tempted to pepper my post with disparaging remarks about my looks, but I won't comment about how the designs translate for my age and size if you don't!  You can make up your own mind about whether these are flattering styles for an older and bigger woman.

The first tunic is from Pochee volume 6 and has several variations of sleeve and trim included in the pattern. Here it is worn by a very cool looking model. I love the patch on her jeans.

Now here's me in a tartan cotton/wool blend. I've made it with no sleeves, one pocket and lace trim at the neck. I wear it a lot with various coloured skinny jeans, elastic-waist trousers, skirts and scarves.

During the winter I always wear a close fitting, colourful, long sleeved undershirt as my base layer. In these photos I'm wearing a chartreuse one but I pick them up in as many colours as I can find. I also wear this tunic with purple or cream undershirts. Sometimes I pick up on the lace edge and wear all tea-stained and antique colours.

The next piece is a coat dress with a two-part sleeve. The upper part of the sleeve is cut on the bias and the lower part has a tuck so that it flutes out. It can be made with just the shorter piece for sleeves...

or with no sleeves.

I have made it both ways.

In this first set of photos I am wearing the full sleeve version. I have given it three different buttons at the top front and then left it open at the skirt. The pattern doesn't include the button opening. The front and back bodice pieces are the same so you can choose whether to wear it with the centre slit in the back or front. I adjusted it to have a dart in the front bodice so the back and front are not the same and I wear the split in the front so you can see I have a waist. I made this version when I was a little heavier. I would make it smaller now.

Again, I wear it with an undershirt, jeans, trousers, skirt and scarves. In the photo on the left I'm wearing a cheap spot scarf I bought. I cut the fringed edge and sewed on some of my massive collection of vintage lace. In the photo on the right I am wearing a crocheted scarf/shawl/shrug thing (more about that later).

This next example shows the dress with just the shorter part of the sleeve. There are no buttons on the front here, it just pulls on over my head. On the left I'm wearing a crocheted flower at the neck. On the right I am wearing a crocheted collar with the flower as a closure. I'm also wearing a pair of trousers I made from a pattern from Lisette (page 34-35).

Here it is again with long sleeves and pockets but no front opening. This is a thick velvet Kenzo fabric so it doesn't drape as much, making me look bigger but it is warm and comfortable. The pockets are great; it's a favourite for when I'm teaching kids art classes and need a hundred places to keep things. The kids always ask whether I've made what I'm wearing. They act as if it is a magic trick- girls and boys!

Lace scarf on left is pieced from scraps of vintage lace in cream and ivory. I've made loads of these elastic waist trousers. They give you a pooh-bear bottom so I wouldn't wear them without a tunic on top but they are cut so that they make your legs look as if there is a gap between them like the Japanese girls.

Here's some pictures of me with bags as if you've spotted me walking down the street. I made the one on the left from a Japanese pattern.

I'll give you more detailed shots later, I just wanted to get started with some sense of the silhouette on my figure. I should probably post these to Flickr. I'd love to see how this style of clothes looks on other real people. (Later I did go on Flickr and start a group for pictures of women modelling the clothes they've made from Japanese patterns.)

Next time I'll be discussing selecting a pattern; what are flattering styles and substituting with commercial patterns.

Comments

[Gilli]

What about a begining sewer who can't read Japanese?

[greedynan]

LOVE the tartan model tunic and REALLY LOVE the crochet lace scarf and the petticoat underneath. I've been trying to find a full petticoat pattern but am having no luch - any ideas - bearing in mind I don't have your talent.

[Robin Atkins]

Fun post, Juju! I haven't visited for a long time so read through all visible posts, enjoying myself as always! As for theme suggestions... Since I love your art, photos, tips and the way you write, just about any theme is appealing... however, what makes my heart zing the most is your painting!

Robin A.

PS... You look great in the Japanese dresses you've made!

[susan]

these clothes are so inspiring to me to see juju. i am so clothes illiterate and the patterns and style of these make me want to try them out.
you look smashing and WOW that tartan is incredible ... i don't think i would start with that one, but i truly love it...
thanks for the nudge to fashion forward .
xoxo
susan

[juju]

Greedynan, Just use a skirt pattern for a petticoat. Something A Lined with a fill layer at the bottom is ideal.
Gilli,
I hope my tutorial and others on the net that I will be directing you to will give you all the info you need.

[andrea]

I just love this post.I have bought a lot of these Japanese patterns/books over the years and am always worried how I'll look.Your post has given me new confidence-I love your clothes.

[melissa f]

gorgeous -- i love the first one best, i think, but may change my mind if i saw them in person. i *just* finished my first adult japanese pattern -- a tunic also. i'm fairly busty too (DD) so was nervous about the fit but i'm pretty happy with it.

really fantastic stuff. thanks!

[alison]

I am so glad that you are going ahead with this topic. You look great, and your personal style shines in your choices of colors and combinations of garments. I am even shorter and more "rounded", as well as older, but your pictures give me hope that some of these styles would work for me. I've browsed some of the japanese pattern/sewing books, but not wanted to buy any since I am not shaped like that. I just might dust off my sewing machine and sew along with you...

[monica]

hey nice to see you!

I love your clothes. Just my style...

I need to take the plunge and try. Must.

[Cathy]

Is the coat dress pattern in the same book you made the tartan tunic? I really like the split V down the middle. Thanks!