Juju Loves Polka Dots

A Month of Dressmaking: Body shapes and sizes

This is the third post in my month of dressmaking series. I wanted to discuss choosing a pattern that is appropriate for your shape and wardrobe. But when I started to do this I realized that I only really knew what worked for my top heavy figure. However, I'll share that with you and point out some other places to look for ideas.

I'm not a big believer in Trinny and Susannah style fascism. I think everyone comes out of this show looking like identi-kits. It's much more important to enjoy what you're wearing than displaying your cleavage to maximum potential. Please take anything I say with a pinch of salt and wear what makes you happy. Because this Japanese style of clothing is layered it can look good on all sizes but it's also very loose which can put you into the tent category.

The following pictures come from Pomadour's eBay site. She sells all these Japanese books, including two pattern books with multi-sizing. The covers follow.

The first book is designed for a larger size than usual (Bust 96 cm, Waist 88 cm, and Hip 108 cm, a pear shaped UK size 16-18, American size 14-16, European size 46-48) and shows everything modeled on a shorter, heavier model.

Most of the designs are pretty similar to the other books but there are a few scary ones like this.

A tunic with a draw string across the hips and ankle strap sandals is brave territory if you're not tall!

The next book is interesting because it shows the same styles modeled on a variety of figures with slight variations in length. Their biggest model is still not very big by European or American standards (that's her on the right, about a UK size 14-16).

But I like the look of this book because it shows how making small adjustments like changing the length can flatter (or otherwise) different figures. Take a look at the pictures below and on Pomadour's eBay site to see what I mean.

Personally, I think the girl on the right would do better with a shorter dress length, don't you?

For my own figure I need to avoid dresses like this:

 

which go out at the chest and carry on. My chest is my largest point and this really gives me a tent silhouette. Much better are dresses like this

which fit close over the chest and can taper in the bodice to the waist. I usually have to drop the waistline a few inches though as I'm long in the body. I also add bust darts, once again to avoid the tent effect. I'll be showing you how to make these pattern adjustments in the next few weeks.

I'm delighted to say that the Flickr group I started, for sewing women's clothing from Japanese pattern books, is growing and there are a good number of photos showing people modeling the designs.

If you feel these photos don't inspire you because many of the models are younger and thinner, check out Flickr's Women over 40 looking fabulous. This is a great inspiration to me.

There is a great article about sewing from Japanese patterns on this blog.

For all you knitters and crocheters, I've just joined Ravelry.  What took me so long, eh? It's amazing!

My next post will be about choosing fabric for your patterns.

A Month of Dressmaking: Some Japanese patterns I have made

Hi Guys,
I'm back with a clean studio. I got older while I was gone, but I'm feeling some wisdom too, so it's not all bad. Now, to finally get on with a Month of Dressmaking!

My second post on this subject shows me wearing some of the designs I have already made from Japanese dressmaking books. These are all incredibly simple patterns to make. The shapes are easy to cut, fit and sew and the instructions are straight forward.

If you're in your twenties (or younger) and very thin, you can assume the clothes will look similar to the pictures in the books. If you're older, live in a different climate, taller or wider you will need to use your imagination a little.

I am a UK size 12-14, which is about a European 40, US 10-12, or size medium. I wear an F cup bra which is my biggest fitting problem and I'm 5'5 or 1.65m tall. I'm tempted to pepper my post with disparaging remarks about my looks, but I won't comment about how the designs translate for my age and size if you don't!  You can make up your own mind about whether these are flattering styles for an older and bigger woman.

The first tunic is from Pochee volume 6 and has several variations of sleeve and trim included in the pattern. Here it is worn by a very cool looking model. I love the patch on her jeans.

Now here's me in a tartan cotton/wool blend. I've made it with no sleeves, one pocket and lace trim at the neck. I wear it a lot with various coloured skinny jeans, elastic-waist trousers, skirts and scarves.

During the winter I always wear a close fitting, colourful, long sleeved undershirt as my base layer. In these photos I'm wearing a chartreuse one but I pick them up in as many colours as I can find. I also wear this tunic with purple or cream undershirts. Sometimes I pick up on the lace edge and wear all tea-stained and antique colours.

The next piece is a coat dress with a two-part sleeve. The upper part of the sleeve is cut on the bias and the lower part has a tuck so that it flutes out. It can be made with just the shorter piece for sleeves...

or with no sleeves.

I have made it both ways.

In this first set of photos I am wearing the full sleeve version. I have given it three different buttons at the top front and then left it open at the skirt. The pattern doesn't include the button opening. The front and back bodice pieces are the same so you can choose whether to wear it with the centre slit in the back or front. I adjusted it to have a dart in the front bodice so the back and front are not the same and I wear the split in the front so you can see I have a waist. I made this version when I was a little heavier. I would make it smaller now.

Again, I wear it with an undershirt, jeans, trousers, skirt and scarves. In the photo on the left I'm wearing a cheap spot scarf I bought. I cut the fringed edge and sewed on some of my massive collection of vintage lace. In the photo on the right I am wearing a crocheted scarf/shawl/shrug thing (more about that later).

This next example shows the dress with just the shorter part of the sleeve. There are no buttons on the front here, it just pulls on over my head. On the left I'm wearing a crocheted flower at the neck. On the right I am wearing a crocheted collar with the flower as a closure. I'm also wearing a pair of trousers I made from a pattern from Lisette (page 34-35).

Here it is again with long sleeves and pockets but no front opening. This is a thick velvet Kenzo fabric so it doesn't drape as much, making me look bigger but it is warm and comfortable. The pockets are great; it's a favourite for when I'm teaching kids art classes and need a hundred places to keep things. The kids always ask whether I've made what I'm wearing. They act as if it is a magic trick- girls and boys!

Lace scarf on left is pieced from scraps of vintage lace in cream and ivory. I've made loads of these elastic waist trousers. They give you a pooh-bear bottom so I wouldn't wear them without a tunic on top but they are cut so that they make your legs look as if there is a gap between them like the Japanese girls.

Here's some pictures of me with bags as if you've spotted me walking down the street. I made the one on the left from a Japanese pattern.

I'll give you more detailed shots later, I just wanted to get started with some sense of the silhouette on my figure. I should probably post these to Flickr. I'd love to see how this style of clothes looks on other real people. (Later I did go on Flickr and start a group for pictures of women modelling the clothes they've made from Japanese patterns.)

Next time I'll be discussing selecting a pattern; what are flattering styles and substituting with commercial patterns.

Oh dear, oh dear, oh dear!

What have I done?!!

I thought it would be a good idea to move my desk across my studio so that I could pick up the so-called wireless broadband connection better. Well, to move my desk I had to move all the furniture in it's path... and then I had to empty said furniture of its contents... and then I thought it would be a good idea to sort through those contents...and now I have to figure out what to do with all the stuff that is now everywhere, rendering my studio space unworkable!

What a mess!

So I didn't keep up with the February postings because I've left myself no room to sew or photograph. I promise to be running smoothly again by the first of March. Should have set that as the relaunch date in the first place.

However, I have got some pictures of wedding dresses to show you and I will address some of the questions that I've received about sewing your own clothes from Japanese books.

Last Spring, two of my good friends got married to their long term partners and I made them dresses. These are pictures of my friend Amanda and her now-husband, Hugh.

Amanda's dress was made with a red satin and a fuchsia chiffon over-layer. The hem hangs in asymmetrical squares that are embellished with tiny chiffon pom-pom beads. Any of these beads can be fastened up to several points on the seams, creating new shapes with the hem. The neckline and sleeves are in satin alone. She looked very beautiful and happy!

Sewing clothes with Japanese patterns:

Several of you wrote me saying that you used to sew clothing for yourself when you were younger and a more predictable shape. More recent attempts proved discouraging because you are no longer that shape. You must always try on the tissue and fit as you go along. You can expect a better fit in homemade clothes than store bought if you take the time to do this. I will be demonstrating this as I go along.

I also received queries about how difficult it is to follow Japanese instructions. The books that I have and will post about all have very simple shapes and the diagrams couldn't be easier. Again, I think you'll see what I mean when I post about it. I will also mention several books that you could get alongside the Japanese patterns books to lead you through the steps of dressmaking.

Another question that I worried about myself was the size of the patterns. The average Japanese women is much smaller than the average European woman. Will the patterns suit/fit you? I have always had to make a larger size than the largest pattern. I will be walking through the steps to enlarge the pattern and modeling the results. I am 5'5" and weigh lbs. I'll give you all my measurements so you can compare them to your own body shape and judge for yourself how they look. I'm not a young wisp but I think this kind of layered dressing can look good and be very wearable on many body shapes, ages and sizes.

Let me know if you have any more questions. I promise to be back in fully operational post mode by March 1st!

A Month of Dressmaking: Patterns

Welcome to the beginning of my new posts on monthly projects.

This month, February, I will be dressmaking in the studio. I could easily blog about dressmaking all year long but I'll calm down and complete a project this month.

I love to make my own clothes! I know sewing clothing seems anachronistic in these times of plentiful, cheap, ready-to-wear, but I believe there are still good reasons for making your own. I won't pretend that economy is one of them as my collection of fabric would mock me.

1. Fit: The reason why there are so many clothes made out of jersey fabrics is because this is the only way to get the "flexible" dress sizes needed for the mass market. If you want a dress to fit in your upper and lower body in a woven fabric you had better be a perfect dress size. That means a bra cup B and proportionate waist and hips. No matter how much weight I lose I will never be this standard size.
2. Style: I can find styles I like in high end clothing but I can't afford them. When I want unique clothing I make it myself.
3. Satisfaction: I love making things. I'd much rather spend the weekend sewing than shopping in a mall, wouldn't you?

For this month's project I am going to work with a ready-made pattern. Albeit, in Japanese. Like many of you crafters I have a collection of Japanese craft books. I get mine from Pomadour at EBay. Look under the category for Clothing Pattern Books.

There are many to choose from. The Pochee magazines are particularly good.

I'll be back in a few days with more. I'm nursing a stomach flu today.

An update...

A unicorn and a Cyclops.That's an accident waiting to happen.
Rohan Agalawatta

I have been so busy making wedding dresses that I haven't had time to post. Two of my close friends are getting married this Spring. One after 24 years and 4 children with her partner and the other 18 years and three children later.

I envy them for being able to have their children at their weddings. My friend Andrea had her eldest daughter and son witness their marriage. It was very moving! And her dress was beautiful. I don't have any pictures because I didn't want to carry my camera while acting as bridesmaid (or should that be matron?). But I'll show post some when we get the prints. She looked so beautiful. Her dress was silver and black... you'll see.

I'm working on the next dress now and having a great time. More about that later...

Yesterday I had a surprise encounter. After viewing some fancy dresses in an upmarket shop in London, I went to do some quick drawings in a local cafe. (Have you seen the clothing of FutureClassics? Beautiful, wearable cuts!)

Anyway I noticed the long braid of felter Jorie Johnson (see my last post for an enthusiastic review of her books)  at the next table so I went up and introduced myself. She invited me to join her and we sat chatting for 2 hours. How fortuitous is that? She has just come from the International Feltmakers Association AGM in Holland and is passing through Britain on her way to the States. I had really wanted to nip over to do a workshop with her in Holland but couldn't afford it at the moment.

When I came back from my day out yesterday I felt so charged up with inspiration!

Much to do!

Today's inspiration: Laura Walker's buttons. I can't get enough of these. If you want some, buy from her Etsy sight now, before I get them all!

Likes: One of my favourite painters, Tom Wood has a blog and a website. The last time I did a web search on him I didn't find these. He just let me know so now my sidebar is up to date.

Sewing Update

I hate my supervisor. Behind her desk it says, "You don't have to be mad to work here, but it helps." Mind you, she's written it in her own shit. Alan Carr

I had a question about how the Diane Ericson, Fault lines pattern turned out, when I sewed it.

I tried it out in a cheap shirting fabric with a fleece vest to see how it fitted. I needed to alter it quite a bit to get over the 36F's or it would have fastened right at a nipple. Here's the shirt (jacket) on my skinny dummy:

Here it is with the red fleece vest. Again I was trying it out so I didn't want to use expensive fabrics.

I don't think either of the fabrics did it any favors. I'm not sure whether I'll make it again.

I found wonderful Middle Aged Teacher through Wardrobe Remix on Flickr, which is run by the funky dresser Tricia Royal. Love this look:

Great Shoes!

I wish they had more big girls on Wardrobe Remix. But, that is up to big girls like me to submit themselves, I guess.

A last pic of one of my felt pictures. This is the first one I've shown anyone.

I think you need to see a detail photo along with it. I'll work on that.

Today's Inspiration: Annette Totzauer's felt jewelery (look under Filz>picture of the beads).

Likes: I'd like a pair of felt boots next winter.

Felt day

I can picture in my mind a world without war, a world without hate. And I can picture us attacking that world, because they'd never expect it.
Jack Handey

I'm very excited by felting since Lizzie Houghton's new book has come out.

This is the most delicious looking book on felting ever! I found it very straight forward in its explanations too.

I have long wanted to have a go at making nuno felt by trapping a gauzy layer of fabric between layers of felted wool. This book inspired me to have a go.

The resulting fabric is light, warm and drapes beautifully. I allow the base fabric to show through in some places and even cut holes in the fabric. The edges are worked to form natural shapes.These pieces have seen been turned in to a vest.

This next piece of felt is trapping a synthetic organdy with sequin appliqué on it.

It forms the front panels of this shirt pattern from Diane Ericson.

I left the edges raw and just sewed them on top of the original panel. That way they are lined with cotton and comfortable. This looks great under another layer. Like an amazing scarf peaking through.

It's not perfect but I love it and will wear it a lot. I'm keen to make more felt like this now.

Today's Inspiration: Lagenlook (go to Ebay, Europe to see examples.) I didn't know there was a particular name for this style of dressing, but in Europe they call the layering look Lagenlook (German). It is very popular with larger ladies but the best examples look very interesting.

Likes: A great example of lagenlook is German label Privatsachen.

More about clothes

Husband to wife: "Put your coat on, I'm going to the pub."
Wife: "Oh, that's nice, are you taking me for a drink?"
Husband: "No, I'm turning the heating off."

More clothes!
A month ago I went to the knitting and stitching show at Alexander Palace and had a wonderful day. I loved being with hundreds of over-enthusiastic crafts women for the day. If I'd had more time,  I'd have happily spent another day there.
I came home with bags of fabric and a bill for an overlock machine. One of the fabrics was this wonderful Italian wool scribble coating, which I'm told was made for Missoni.

I loved it and bought enough for the Sewing Workshop's Soho coat.

Well it's all made up and lined now, and I love it!

I'm even pleased that the weather has turned colder.

I've been busy making felt too.

This piece has been felted into a hairy, sparkly net material. It is now an amazing vest. I'll show more pictures next time.

I've got a new blog project in mind that I'm working on getting ready for the new year. But I'll be posting here until then.

Angel

Did you hear about the little baby mouse who left his mousy hole for the first time? He saw a bat flying around in the big, wide world. He raced home, shouting, "Mummy, mummy, I've just seen an angel!"

It all depends on your point of view I guess.

I disappeared again, didn't I? Well, there's a good reason this time - I've had a terrible stomach flu. So bad, in fact, that I had to cancel my earring workshop at the Make Lounge last week. Big apologies to all of my students and I promise to make it up to you at the rescheduled class.

Because the class has been rescheduled, there are some places left. It will now run on the 29th of November, 6:30-9:30, so please come along if you're in town!

When I haven't been sick, I've been sewing. Rather a lot actually. I found a great trouser pattern that I love the look and feel of and now I have trousers for the first time in years.

And shirts!

I don't have to live in t-shirts anymore. I discovered that if you are larger than a D-cup you're better off using a smaller size shirt pattern and making a bust dart. This is a revelation! Shirts that fit! and I love playing with different materials in collars and sleeves.

Above is a shirt made out of two different African indigo Shibori fabrics from the African Fabric shop. I've used a Japanese bunny print in the collar. I love this shirt because I can wear it over t-shirts or on its own. I've cut the sleeves 3" shorter than the pattern to fit my surprisingly short limbs (??) and so finally I have a shirt that isn't getting in the way of my hands all the time. I'm going to make all my shirts 3/4 or bracelet length. I hate pushing up the sleeves all the time!

Here's the shirt again in a Paul Smith shirting fabric and a Japanese print for the collar. There is a great fabric shop in South London that sells mill ends of Paul Smith fabrics for just £3 a metre! I may well have purchased a few more of these amazing fabrics, but I'm not telling!

I'm particularly pleased with this shirt because it matched some Leo Stein vintage plastic buttons my daughter gave me for Christmas a few years ago.

The perfect opportunity to use them!

The pattern is the Now shirt from Sewing Workshop. I have also made the Zen shirt from the same pattern.

This was made from one of the old kimonos. Notice the "hidden" collar detail.

This is a little dressy and I haven't found the perfect opportunity to wear it yet. We'll see.

More sewing and beading next time!

Today's Inspiration: The new Fault Lines pattern by Diane Ericson. I'm waiting by the door for my copy to arrive!

Likes: Washed silk

 

European Fabrics

What's red and white? Pink.

I love Oilily clothes! I know I'm not alone here. After many years of desire I have finally located some amazing Oilily and the like fabrics.

Look at this Kenzo velvet!

And this Oilily velvet.

They are mine, all mine!

I have been playing with different ideas about what to make with them. Perhaps the 8th Avenue skirt from the last post with some red trim?

Or this long trouser skirt (skort?).

Or this version with red peak-a-boo pleats?

Want to know where to get fabric like this? Try this German site or Dots n' stripes here in the UK. In the States try, The Fabric Fairy, Bunte fabrics or Sew Euro.

I'm ever so busy with the sewing. I'll take some good pictures this week to show and tell.

Today's Inspiration: Kayla Kennington's website. It's not quite finished yet but check out this page for an example of the way she reworks one pattern in many different fabrics. I love her simple shapes.

Likes: Cotton flannel. I saw so many beautiful plaids in the fabric shops in Canada but didn't buy. Now I crave its coziness and can't get me none.